I was first introduced to Chasselas when we were living in Burgundy years ago. The director of winemaking at the domaine where my husband worked would host the team for dinners every so often. He had a truly fabulous wine collection and he would generously share special bottles from his cellar with us. Well, one such bottle was the standout Les Vignes de Paradis Terroir du Limon Chasselas and I was immediately hooked.
Discovering Chasselas
Chasselas hails from Switzerland. Though it also grows in France, Germany, Portugal, Hungary, Romania, New Zealand, Croatia, and Chile. Total vineyard plantings around the world encompass around 38,000 hectares. Yet there are few wine regions where it’s pursued seriously for quality wine production. If you’re looking for said quality, turn to Switzerland, France, or Germany. But definitely start with Switzerland where Chasselas experienced somewhat of a renaissance story.
After the phylloxera pandemic that destroyed vineyards throughout Europe, Swiss growers were encouraged to plant Chasselas due to its productivity and ease of cultivation. However, by the 1950s Chasselas dominated vineyards from Geneva to Valais. Soon a quantity over quality dilemma ensued in Switzerland and consequently people began to turn their noses up at Chasselas. Then came a government-subsidized campaign to uproot vineyards because it was so over planted. Thankfully in this modern wine era, the focus in Switzerland has returned to quality Chasselas wines particularly in the Vaud in Valais regions.
Learn more about the history of Chasselas and its many bio types here.
About this Swiss White Wine
Chasselas is also known as Fendant and Gutedel, and wasn’t actually called by its current name until the late 19th century. While it might be construed by some as a simple wine, it isn’t necessarily all that easy going. It takes an astute wine taster to appreciate the nuances of this great Swiss grape. But poor quality examples of this white wine can seem neutral.
However, the best expressions offer mouthwatering acidity and a combination of fruity, floral, and mineral characteristics. Depending on where it’s grown, Chasselas wines can be fruity, light, and highly drinkable. They tend to have lower alcohol around 11-12% abv. Wines from truly great vintages can be aged from five to ten years, yielding aromas of walnut and honey with a remarkably supple texture.
In the vineyard, Chasselas has medium-to-large, compact clusters whose yellow-green skins turn golden under the sun. If not properly managed, this variety can be quite over productive – a factor which led to its poor reputation in the wine world early on. Chasselas is an early ripening variety and thus ideal for cooler climates like the alpine climate found in Switzerland.
Seek Out Wines From Les Vignes de Paradis
If you’re going to try this variety, then you should definitely seek out this wine:
Made by Les Vignes de Paradis, Terroir du Léman Un P’Tit Coin de Paradis is 100% Chasselas from the Savoie region. Alas, my go-to Chasselas is from France albeit in a region boarding Switzerland.
This artisan vigneron practices biodynamics with a passion and is dedicated to the pursuit of deeply understanding and expressing his terroir wholeheartedly. Though the bulk of the work is done in the vineyards, production in the cellar focuses on the use of concrete eggs and amphorae. Personally, two of my favorite wine making vessels for the finesse and elegance they lend to the final wines.
This Chasselas from Les Vignes de Paradis is a plush and richly textured wine from 6 hectares of biodynamic vineyards overlooking Lake Geneva in the Haute-Savoie. The definition of a pure, terroir-driven wine, expect honeyed pear and apricot flavors with a hint of alpine herbs and a thread of minerality throughout.
Learn more about the domaine here.
The Best Wine Pairings for Chasselas
Pair this Swiss white wine with gruyère cheese fondue, a creamy mushroom pasta, latkes with smoked salmon and crème fraîche, a bacon and gruyère potato gratin with fresh chives, fresh salads, or spring vegetable dishes like my grilled artichokes with citrus shallot vinaigrette.
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