We have all heard of the legendary Italian reds hailing from Piemonte in northwestern Italy just over the Alps from France. Barolo and Barbaresco. We know them. We adore them. But what about the great whites of Piemonte?
This week’s rare varieties journey takes us to the southern end of Piemonte bordering the coastal region of Liguria. You will find the great white wine of the region here in the town of Gavi. So great, in fact, that this white wine has elicited its own DOCG. According to Karen McNeil, “During the 1960s and 1970s, many wine experts considered it the best dry white wine in all Italy.” The famed Gavi DOCG produces exquisite, harmonious white wines from an autochthonous Piemontese variety called Cortese.
Gavi DOCG
The Gavi DOCG designation encompasses eleven zones in the Province of Alessandria. These zones include Bosio, Capriata d’Orba, Carrosio, Francavilla Bisio, Gavi, Novi Ligure, Parodi Ligure, Pasturana, San Cristoforo, Serravalle Scrivia, and Tassarolo.
In order to bear the Gavi DOCG designation, the wine must be produced with 100% Cortese. Evidence suggests that Cortese was planted as far back as the 16th century. In 1965, correspondence between the castle of Montaldeo and the marquis Doria recorded the first mention of “pure cortese vines.” Moreover, the region of Gavi has ancient origins in wine growing. A preserved document in the State Archives of Genoa dated June 3, 1972 indicates that the Bishop of Genoa paid two citizens in Gavi to rent vineyards in Mariana. In reference to this piece of history, Gavi dal 972 is the name of the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi. Check out their website for more incredible information on the history of Cortese in Gavi.
You may find wines from this geographic indication labeled as Gavi DOCG, Gavi di Gavi DOCG, or Cortese di Gavi DOCG. The DOCG includes tranquillo (still), frizzante (lightly sparkling), spumante (sparkling), riserva (reserve), and Riserva Spumante metodo classic (sparkling reserve classic method) wines. Here is the breakdown the DOCG requirements by designation.
Tranquillo
- Maximum yield per hectare: 9.5 tons
- Maximum 8.5 tons for the “vigna” (“vineyard’) designation
- Minimum 9.5% ABV
- Minimum 10.5% ABV for “vigna” designation
Frizzante
- Maximum yield per hectare: 9.5 tons
- Maximum 8.5 tons for the “vigna” (“vineyard’) designation
- Minimum 9.5% ABV
- Minimum 10.5% ABV for “vigna” designation
Spumante
- Maximum yield per hectare: 9.5 tons
- Maximum 8.5 tons for the “vigna” (“vineyard’) designation
- Minimum 9% ABV
- Minimum 10.5% ABV for “vigna” designation
Riserva
- Maximum yield per hectare: 6.5 tons
- Minimum 11% ABV
- 1 year of aging, of which 6 months must be in bottle
Riserva Spumante Metodo Classico
- Maximum yield per hectare: 6.5 tons
- Minimum 11% ABV
- 2 years of aging, of which 18 months must be in bottle with the yeasts
The maximum yields per hectare are increasingly reduced from the third year of planting on. You can dive into the specifics here. The maximum yield in finished wine shall not be higher than 70%. Additionally, The batches of grapes intended for the Riserva type must be separately registered and declared. Where the wine is subject to sparkling production, it is possible to reclassify from “Gavi” Riserva to “Gavi” Spumante Riserva after the initial declaration.
Winemaking and bottling operations must be completed within the defined DOCG production area. Concentrated grape musts can only be used to increase alcoholic levels of the DOCG wines. They must come from within the defined geographic area. Gavi dal 972 has done an absolutely fantastic job of providing detailed information for the Gavi DOCG. So, head to their website for further details.
The Variety: Cortese
“It has rather long bunches, rather big berries,and when it matures, it becomes yellow and is good to eat, it makes good wine, is abundant and it keeps.” – Count Nuvolone, Deputy Director of the Agrarian Society of Turin 1978
Mainly grown in the predominantly hilly zone of Gavi, Cortese is the great white variety of Piemonte. Seventy five different biotypes of Cortese have been identified. In similar fashion to Nebbiolo, the region’s famed red variety, Cortese is also a vigorous and highly productive vine. High acidity and lean body are common characteristics of this variety. Cortese is often distinguished by its zesty, crisp palate with citrus, floral, melon, and mineral aromatics.
In the early 1980s, like so many other wines, Cortese was over-yielded and produced unexciting wines. Thankfully, producers returned to an emphasis on quality over quantity and the results were phenomenal. The high acidity of Cortese helps retain freshness in the wine. In order to add texture and balance the acidity, some producers will opt for partial malolactic fermentation. This technique can add interesting complexity when done well.
Climate & Vineyards of Gavi
Though there are a few examples of Cortese in the Veneto, Lombardy, and even California, for the most part this variety is uniquely grown in Piemonte. Cortese can easily produce wines that are overly acidic, bland, and out of balance. To be successful, this variety requires the specific growing conditions found in its birthplace of Gavi. Just as Nebbiolo thrives in Barolo and Barbaresco.
The Gavi appellation sits in the southern end of Piedmont on the border of the coastal region of Liguria. Gavi is uniquely positioned to receive both the cooling influences from the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps mountain ranges. The drastic temperature swing from day to night leading up to harvest helps to preserve acidity and intensify aromatics. The microclimate of the appellation is characterized by abundant rainfall from October to April (619mm) and hot, dry summers. During September, temperatures are mild with exceptionally sunny days helping to bring the fruit to full maturity for harvest.
The Guyot vine training system is often used in Gavi with an average of 3,300 to 5,000 vines planted per hectare. On average, vine rows are planted 2.4 to 2.6 meters apart with 0.9 to 1.2 meters between vines in order to facilitate cultivation and canopy management.
The Winery: Mauro Sebaste
Mauro Sebaste is a family owned and operated winery located in Alba. The winery’s namesake started the company encouraged by his strong passion for wine. Today, Mauro Sebaste produces wine from 30 hectares of owned and rented vineyards. Mauro mainly focuses on producing wines of uncompromising quality and in such is constantly seeking the best vineyard sites. The winery currently works with Alba, Serralunga, Barolo, La Morra, Verduno, Vinchio, Diano d’Alba, Montelupo, Mango, Piobesi d’Alba and Vezza d’Alba. For more on Mauro Sebaste and their extensive portfolio of wines, visit their website here.
The Wine: Mauro Sebaste, Gavi DOCG 2018
Vineyards with a high percentage of calcareous soils in the Novi area of the DOCG produced this Cortese. Manual harvest occurred in mid-September. The wine was fermented at low temperatures in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. As required by the DOCG regulations, vinification was carried out in the zone of origin so that the fruit could be pressed immediately following harvest. The wine remained in stainless steel tanks for 2-3 months until bottling in February.
tasting Notes
- Medium straw yellow with green reflections
- Medium pronounced aromas of white florals – honeysuckle, sea breeze, seashells, chalk, Gala apples, Meyer lemon, ripe honeydew melon
- Dry, crisp & refreshing yet elegantly textured
- Medium body, medium-plus acidity
- More salinity and minerals on the palate with a hint of citrus and honeydew melon delicately lingering with the persistent finish
- A harmonious wine, well-balanced and integrated. Outstanding quality.
Pairing Suggestions
This wine would allow most seafood dishes to sing, but especially those with lots of fresh lemon, butter, and herbs. Pan seared scallops in a sauce of butter, lemon, and parsley. Grilled fish tacos doused in a cilantro-based chimichurri and spritzed with a squeeze of lime. Or perhaps a fresh bruschetta on crostini served alongside a creamy ricotta. A simple lemon ricotta pasta or the classic aglio olio.
